Nestled in the rugged mountains of southern Albania, Gjirokastër is a city that feels like a living museum. Its stone houses, Ottoman-era architecture, and cobblestone streets tell stories of resilience, tradition, and a unique blend of influences. But beyond its postcard-perfect scenery, Gjirokastër’s culture is a microcosm of larger global conversations—preservation vs. modernization, the impact of tourism, and the role of heritage in a rapidly changing world.
The UNESCO Legacy and the Battle for Preservation
Gjirokastër’s entire historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a designation that brings both pride and challenges. The city’s iconic kule (tower houses) and Ottoman bazaar are architectural marvels, but maintaining them in the 21st century is no small feat.
The Struggle Against Modernization
As younger generations move to Tirana or abroad, many historic homes risk falling into disrepair. The Albanian government and NGOs have stepped in with restoration projects, but funding is limited. Meanwhile, debates rage: Should Gjirokastër prioritize preserving its past or adapt to modern needs? Some locals argue for updated infrastructure, while purists insist the city’s charm lies in its untouched authenticity.
Tourism: A Double-Edged Sword
Pre-pandemic, Gjirokastër saw a surge in visitors drawn by its UNESCO status and its reputation as the birthplace of dictator Enver Hoxha. Post-lockdown, tourism is rebounding—but not without consequences. Airbnb-style rentals are transforming residential areas, and some fear the city could become another Dubrovnik, overrun by day-trippers but empty of local life.
The Polyphonic Echoes of Tradition
One of Gjirokastër’s most captivating cultural treasures is its iso-polyphony, a UNESCO-listed musical tradition. This hauntingly beautiful style of vocal harmony, often performed at weddings and festivals, is a testament to Albania’s resilience under centuries of foreign rule.
Keeping the Music Alive
With globalization homogenizing musical tastes, polyphony risks fading into obscurity. Local ensembles like Oda Dibrane are fighting back by teaching younger generations and performing at international festivals. Their efforts highlight a universal question: How do we safeguard intangible heritage in the digital age?
The Culinary Crossroads
Gjirokastër’s cuisine is a delicious reflection of its history. Ottoman, Greek, and Italian influences mingle in dishes like qifqi (rice balls with herbs) and pasha qofte (a rich lamb stew). But here, too, globalization looms.
Slow Food vs. Fast Food
As imported ingredients and chain restaurants creep in, advocates for slow food are pushing back. Farmers’ markets still thrive, and family-run mëngjesore (breakfast spots) serve homemade yogurt and byrek. The challenge? Convincing younger Albanians that traditional cooking is worth the effort in a world of instant gratification.
The Shadow of Hoxha and the Communist Past
Gjirokastër’s most famous (or infamous) son, Enver Hoxha, casts a long shadow. His former home is now the Ethnographic Museum, but the city grapples with how to remember its communist era.
Memory Wars
For older residents, Hoxha’s regime was a time of both oppression and odd nostalgia—jobs were guaranteed, but freedoms were scarce. Younger Albanians, raised on stories of bunkers and secret police, often reject this era entirely. This generational divide mirrors global tensions over how societies reckon with difficult histories.
Festivals and the Future
Events like the National Folk Festival (held every five years in Gjirokastër’s ancient castle) showcase Albania’s living traditions. But as climate change brings hotter summers and erratic weather, even these celebrations face uncertainty.
Sustainability in the Spotlight
Organizers are increasingly focusing on eco-friendly practices—reducing waste, promoting local artisans, and offsetting carbon footprints. It’s a small but symbolic step toward ensuring Gjirokastër’s culture endures in an era of environmental crisis.
The Resilience of a Stone City
Gjirokastër’s nickname, "The City of Stone," speaks to its endurance. From Ottoman rule to communism to the chaos of the 1990s, it has weathered countless storms. Today, as it navigates tourism, globalization, and climate change, its greatest test may be preserving its soul while embracing the future.
For travelers seeking more than a pretty backdrop, Gjirokastër offers a lens into the urgent cultural debates of our time—how to honor the past without being trapped by it, and how to share a heritage without selling it.