Nestled along the western coast of North Korea, Haeju (해주) is a city steeped in history, tradition, and a unique cultural identity that often goes unnoticed in global discourse. While the world’s attention is frequently drawn to Pyongyang’s grand monuments or the geopolitical tensions surrounding the Korean Peninsula, Haeju offers a quieter, more intimate glimpse into the daily lives and cultural practices of North Koreans.
The Historical Legacy of Haeju
A City of Scholars and Revolutionaries
Haeju’s history dates back to the Goguryeo era, but it gained prominence during the Joseon Dynasty as a center of Confucian learning. The city was home to the renowned Haeju Hyanggyo, a Confucian academy that produced scholars and officials who shaped Korea’s intellectual landscape. Even today, remnants of this scholarly tradition linger in the city’s architecture and local customs.
During the Korean War, Haeju became a strategic battleground, and its proximity to the Northern Limit Line (NLL) has kept it in the crosshairs of inter-Korean tensions. Yet, despite its turbulent past, the city has preserved its cultural heritage with a quiet resilience.
The Influence of Buddhism and Shamanism
While North Korea officially promotes atheism, traces of Buddhism and indigenous shamanistic practices can still be found in Haeju. The Sogwang Temple, though less frequented than in the past, stands as a testament to the region’s spiritual history. Locals occasionally engage in rituals that blend folk beliefs with state-sanctioned ideologies, creating a fascinating cultural hybrid.
Daily Life in Haeju: A Glimpse Behind the Curtain
The Rhythms of a Coastal Community
Unlike the bustling streets of Pyongyang, Haeju moves at a slower pace. The city’s economy revolves around fishing, agriculture, and light industry. The Haeju Fishery Complex is a hub of activity, where workers haul in catches of crab, squid, and other seafood—some of which are exported to China, a key trading partner amid international sanctions.
The local markets, though modest compared to those in the South, offer a window into the resourcefulness of Haeju’s residents. With shortages of certain goods due to sanctions, bartering and informal trade networks have become essential for survival.
Education and Propaganda: The Dual Role of Schools
Schools in Haeju, like elsewhere in North Korea, emphasize loyalty to the Kim regime. Children participate in mass games and ideological training, but there’s also a strong focus on science and technology—a reflection of the country’s push for self-reliance. The Haeju University of Education plays a key role in shaping the next generation of teachers and propagandists.
Yet, beneath the surface, whispers of outside influences seep in. Smuggled South Korean dramas and K-pop songs occasionally find their way into the city, offering a tantalizing glimpse of the world beyond.
Haeju’s Cultural Expressions: Art, Music, and Dance
Revolutionary Opera and Folk Traditions
North Korea’s state-sponsored art is on full display in Haeju’s cultural performances. The Haeju Art Theater stages revolutionary operas that glorify the Kim dynasty and the struggles of the Korean people. These productions are a blend of traditional Korean music (gugak) and Soviet-inspired orchestration.
At the same time, folk dances like the Haeju Gyobang Dance—a regional variation of the seungmu (monk’s dance)—are still performed during local festivals. These dances, with their flowing sleeves and rhythmic drumming, offer a rare connection to Korea’s pre-division cultural heritage.
The Role of Mansudae Art Studio
While not based in Haeju, the influence of Pyongyang’s Mansudae Art Studio is evident in the city’s murals and propaganda posters. Socialist realism dominates public art, with larger-than-life depictions of workers, soldiers, and the Kim family. Yet, some local artists quietly experiment with more personal styles, though such deviations are risky under the regime’s strict controls.
Haeju in the Global Context: Sanctions, Diplomacy, and Hope
The Impact of International Sanctions
Haeju’s economy has been hit hard by UN sanctions targeting North Korea’s nuclear program. The fishing industry, once a lifeline, now struggles with fuel shortages and restricted access to foreign markets. The city’s residents have grown adept at adapting, but the strain is visible in the worn faces of elderly market vendors and the scarcity of imported goods.
China’s Shadow: Trade and Smuggling
As North Korea’s closest ally, China plays a crucial role in Haeju’s survival. Cross-border trade, both legal and illicit, provides a lifeline for the city. Chinese-made electronics, clothing, and even food items trickle in through unofficial channels, creating a parallel economy that exists in the shadows of state control.
A City Waiting for Change
With inter-Korean relations fluctuating between thaw and freeze, Haeju remains a city in limbo. Some residents quietly hope for reunification or economic reform, while others cling to the regime’s promises of eventual prosperity. The younger generation, increasingly aware of the outside world through smuggled media, may one day become agents of change—but for now, Haeju’s cultural identity remains tightly bound to the state’s narrative.
The Unseen Beauty of Haeju
Beyond the politics and propaganda, Haeju is a city of quiet beauty. The Haeju Bay, with its tranquil waters, offers a stark contrast to the tension-filled waters of the NLL. The nearby Suyang Mountain provides a scenic escape, where locals hike and picnic under the watchful eyes of state minders.
In the end, Haeju is more than just a footnote in North Korea’s story—it’s a microcosm of the country’s struggles, resilience, and enduring cultural spirit. Whether the world will ever get to see its true face remains uncertain, but for now, the city continues to endure, adapt, and preserve its unique identity against all odds.